Dating by numbers

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Like the body and neck dates, using serial numbers to date a Fender is not a sure bet.At many points in Fender's history, serial number usage overlapped again owing to the modular manner of production.For starters, there's the Reverb Price Guide which has thousands of entries with pictures and details on various guitars and other gear.Some browsing around the Fender section of the Price Guide can definitely help you find which model you have.Instead, the best approach to dating a Fender is to combine indicators from the design of the instrument, the dates found on the neck and body, along with the serial number.Once you have the information you need, if you're interested in selling your Fender, you can use Reverb to get it in front of the largest audience of musicians in the world by clicking on this link.After a short period of overlap with the old system, the post-76 numbers will start with a letter that indicates the decade, followed by a number that indicates the year of that decade.

His guitars were built en masse by an entire factory, not a single luthier toiling over one instrument at a time.Through much of Fender's production history, Fender workers would print or write a production date on both bodies and necks where the two pieces meet.These dates will tell when the original part was manufactured, but are not exact indicators of when the guitar was actually put together and finished.At this time, the location of the serial number also shifted from the bridge to the neckplate (the metal plate located on back of where the neck meets the body).Here's how the serial numbers break down from 1954 to the beginning of 1963, though there are some areas of inconsistency in this era: At the very end of 1962 and into 1963, Fender changed to a system where serial numbers began with an "L." According to some accounts, the L was supposed to just be a 1 to mark the cross over into the 100,000 range from the previous scheme, but an L was used by mistake.

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